Lutel two-handed sword

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Lutel two-handed sword

Postby admin » 05 Sep 2006 16:31

From the Lutel site:

Image

16009
Name Two-Handed Sword
Description England - 1450 Straight blade, straight quillons, fish tail-shaped pommel, wooden spiral grip. Total length 150 cm, blade 110 cm, breadth 50 mm, quillons 300 mm, weight 2,6 kg.
Price 8900,- CZK


This is a pretty cool sword - I got it a few years ago now. With its point on the ground the pommel comes almost to my chin (I am 6'1"). The stats they give on their site are pretty accurate.
This sword is of loosely English type, of a type common from about the 1420's to the end of the 15thC. However, most in this type have a diamond-section blade - this type of flatter blade is more common to the end of the 15thC and the 16thC.
It is standard Lutel heat-treat, so harder than a Del Tin, softer than an Atrim. It handles in air very well - having such a long hilt it feels quite light. The blade is lenticular-section, like a claymore, so relatively flat, no mid-rib, no fuller. Having this kind of blade-section, with almost parallel edges for most of the length, it needs good distal taper, and it has it! If you put the point into the floor and push, the blade only really flexes in the end half of the blade, as it should.
It has standard Lutel construction - the tang has a very substantial bolt welded to the tang and the pommel screws on. I have yet to hear of a Lutel breaking, as the weld and bolt are very robust. I dismounted the pommel and blued it - be warned though, you can't remove the guard, because it is put on the tang before the bolt is welded on, and the weld is wider than the tang slot in the guard..
If I have any criticisms of the sword, it is that the handle should feel a bit more solid - it is wood, but the cavity for the tang is a bit too big for the tang, I guess because of the fat weld. I personally would prefer a more historical construction - one solid tang and a peened end, not screw-on. I should have ordered it sharp instead of semi-sharp - for this reason I have practically never used it, expect for solo drills.
Lastly, the 'harmonics' are a bit off target IMO. To get this right I would reduce the weight of the pommel a bit - this could be achieved by home customisation, either bevelling the edges of the pommel with a file or grinder, or by adding a V-shape cut-out into the end of the fishtail pommel.
http://www.antique-swords.co.uk/

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