John H wrote:Cold Steel has a reputation for ‘combat ready’ meaning overly sharp blades; I have found they also push the point of balance out too far to encourage a hefty cut. This helps in ‘backyard cutting’ as all you need to do is let the blade drop on its own and you have a clean cut. If you wish to train with them, I consider them ‘off limits.’
I have a 1796 of theirs that we dulled down and attempted to use in practice. The point of balance was moved back to 8 inches, but it is still too ‘heavy’ in the cut for me to hit anyone with (I currently use it for ‘weight training.’) I do feel I will break a bone or dent your helm if I put one third my ‘force’ on the cut. As a demonstration, I can hold the blade one inch over your shoulder and ‘let it drop’ you will feel a relatively sizable hit with no force from my arm, as opposed to a real sabre (no real edge on it) we have that weighs 1 ounce less but has a point of balance at six inches. Letting that blade drop from 1 inch is nothing to worry about.
6 inches for a 96 cavalry sabre is about right My 1796s are as follows:
Maker JH Reddell & Co, Birm (Trooper)
Weight - 2lbs 1.25oz
Pob - 6 ins from hilt
Maker D Egg - Haymarket London (Officer model)
Weight - 1lb 15.25oz
Pob - 7 ins from hilt
1788s are lighter and longer but with a pob of around 7-8 inches
Refering to what Matt said about infantry sabres:
1803s
Weight 1lb 12.5oz
Pob 4.5 ins from hilt
and
Weight - 1lb 8oz
Pob - 4 ins from hilt
Other infantry
1lb 7.5oz
4.75 ins from hilt
1lb 6.5oz
5.5 ins from hilt
1lb 5oz
5.5 ins from hilt
Full details here if interested
http://www.sites.google.com/site/george ... 60-18/home