How to choose a wooden waster

[Thearos]

I have two nice red oak bokkens, and two nice wooden ash wasters (one hand sword). They've been used with contact, and against wooden post. Both are varnished (or, in the case of the wasters, slathered in teak oil).

Two have held up well; two have splintered. Those which splintered have, in their grain, successive "V" shapes or chevrons on the edge. The bits that splinter off are chevrons or sections of chevrons. Those which have held up well have the chevrons on the flat (very nice to see), but, on the edge (as much as possible) only the long parallel lines of the grain, sandwich-like in alternating tones. I don't know the technical terms to describe woodgrain but am aware that there are such terms

Obvious, really: chose a wooden sword with an eye to the grain-- parallel grain on the striking edge. I would also have thought that sword makers would have paid attention to this detail. But this makes ordering a wooden sword unseen trickier.

[edited to add a detail]

[Cutlery Penguin]

I've got through a lot of wasters over the years. The simple fact is that they always split.

You can delay it significantly by taping the blade If you do that it is much less relevant what pattern the grain forms.

[Thearos]

Yes, but it doesn't look so nice.

Could you wrap them in boiled leather ? (which, in my imagination, would shrink on to the wood).

[Paul B]

Tape is the way to go.
Leather is too heavy and you will ruin the handling. Unless you don't care about the handling.


You could go with the grain and make a "perfect" waster, but it's going to take a LOT of looking for the right piece of wood.
Even then, a triangular plan blade and tapering will bring the grain to the edge.

Essentially you would have to find the sword shape growing naturally.

As long as its not got a massive knot in it, and there's not too much material taken out for the cross or hilt, it should stand as much chance of breaking as any other.

Past that, there is so much variation in wood (even from the same piece of timber) that you just can't tell till its taking shape.
I've scrapped wasters once they were finished as I wasnt happy with the wood. Some that you think are like iron might break within a year.

The problem is anecdotes.

There's always someone who knows someone with an ancient indestructible waster. It really means nothing. They aren't doing anything special, they aren't made by a master waster maker. They just came out of the best bit of that particular tree.

Choose a waster from someone who knows wood and is honest*. Then tape it up.

*So you can get a refund if it breaks really quickly.

[Cutlery Penguin]

Choose a waster from someone who knows wood and is honest*. Then tape it up.

*So you can get a refund if it breaks really quickly.

And as someone who has used a lot, Paul's are as good as any I have used. Better than many.

[Thearos]

Agreed.

So I'd modify what I wrote. For practice etc, affordable wasters ordered, taped up with silver tape, and used until they break-- good and well. But if I had before me a lot of wasters or bokken, I'd try to look at the grain and choose one which kept the long grain on the edge. Is that fair ?

[Paul B]

Use cricket bat tape. It's clear and not as sticky on the outside.

Always go with the straighter grain. Look at the flat AND the edge. Edge is more indicative of the quality of grain.

But it will go eventually. It's only wood.

Choose what feels nicest

[Paul B]

Choose a waster from someone who knows wood and is honest*. Then tape it up.

*So you can get a refund if it breaks really quickly.

And as someone who has used a lot, Paul's are as good as any I have used. Better than many.

Cheers dude